I decided to go for the A/C straight off the bat. I've ordered the 14,000BTU compressor and 2.5kw AC inverter by Masterflux through EVworks.
http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?category=11
Also got them to send me one of their fuel gauge meter things I mentioned in an earlier post.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Update on the welder
As I mentioned in a previous post I have been having issues with my new Miller Electric Diversion 165 welder. I've been in contact with the company whom I bought it from and they have, in turn, been in contact with the manufacturer. Turns out that the first batch of Diversion 165s will only work on 60Hz AC supplies whereas the ones manufactured later will work on either 50 or 60Hz.
Long story short the manufacturer Miller Electric have decided to send me one of the new models and told me to keep the one I have now for parts! Thanks Miller!
Can't wait to start TIG welding some scrap in preparation for battery boxes :)
Long story short the manufacturer Miller Electric have decided to send me one of the new models and told me to keep the one I have now for parts! Thanks Miller!
Can't wait to start TIG welding some scrap in preparation for battery boxes :)
New arrivals
EV Power Battery Management System Master Unit
Another shot of the BMS
BMS Cell modules
3 of the 45 Sky Energy SE180AHA Batteries
The rest of them..
Engine crane
4kw Fluid heater
1200A 50mV shunt (for Cycle Analyst)
Vacuum Pump
DC/DC Converter
Power Cable - Fat 95mm^2
Conduit - Regulation Orange
Another shot of the BMS
BMS Cell modules
3 of the 45 Sky Energy SE180AHA Batteries
The rest of them..
Engine crane
4kw Fluid heater
1200A 50mV shunt (for Cycle Analyst)
Vacuum Pump
DC/DC Converter
Power Cable - Fat 95mm^2
Conduit - Regulation Orange
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Exciting week
Parts expected to arrive this week are:
Exciting!
- Batteries
- BMS
- Vacuum pump
- Fluid heater
- Power cable, conduit, crimpers, lugs, warning stickers
- DC-DC Converter
Exciting!
Engine removal in a FWD car
It seems that removing the petrol engine requires removing the drive axles first which in turn requires some of the steering/suspension parts to be removed.
I've ordered a tool to enable me to disconnect the lower control arm from the steering knuckle. Once I receive it progress on engine removal should continue as planned.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/21315-GRIP-BALL-JOINT-REMOVAL-INSTALL-SERVICE-KIT_W0QQitemZ170430824233QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ae77ff29
I've ordered a tool to enable me to disconnect the lower control arm from the steering knuckle. Once I receive it progress on engine removal should continue as planned.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/21315-GRIP-BALL-JOINT-REMOVAL-INSTALL-SERVICE-KIT_W0QQitemZ170430824233QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ae77ff29
Using the existing fuel gauge as a battery meter
I just found this:
http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=171
It measures the current flowing through your traction cables. Measuring current along with time gives you Ah used. This works on the same principle as the Cycle Analyst I will be using however it has one really neat feature.. It is designed to connect to an existing fuel gauge.
What does all this mean? It means I can use the existing fuel gauge in the dash as a battery charge meter!
The plan is to have the car look as stock as possible on the inside, utilising all existing gauges (speedo, tacho, fuel gauge, engine warning light and battery light). But at the same time I will have more accurate gauges showing pack voltage, current, motor current etc. all hidden away in the glovebox.
http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=171
It measures the current flowing through your traction cables. Measuring current along with time gives you Ah used. This works on the same principle as the Cycle Analyst I will be using however it has one really neat feature.. It is designed to connect to an existing fuel gauge.
What does all this mean? It means I can use the existing fuel gauge in the dash as a battery charge meter!
The plan is to have the car look as stock as possible on the inside, utilising all existing gauges (speedo, tacho, fuel gauge, engine warning light and battery light). But at the same time I will have more accurate gauges showing pack voltage, current, motor current etc. all hidden away in the glovebox.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
AC System De-gassed & Looking for engine crane
Had a bloke come out today to de-gas the AC system ready for detachment/removal.
Also heading out to look at engine cranes today. I'll stop by the usual candidates (supercheap auto, autobarn, total tools etc.), then compare the offerings on ebay. I'm hoping to find one which folds up to save space.
Also heading out to look at engine cranes today. I'll stop by the usual candidates (supercheap auto, autobarn, total tools etc.), then compare the offerings on ebay. I'm hoping to find one which folds up to save space.
Monday, January 25, 2010
No exhaust
Holden Commodore "the Vee Elll"
Here's what I'll be driving while undergoing the conversion..
It's nowhere near as fun to drive as the Honda, but it will get me from A to B.
Car deconstruction begins!
Radiator, airbox and power steering pump removed. Aircon will be de-gassed soon and removed. I hope to be able to find a place later to mount the compressor and run it from an aux motor... or maybe just use one of these instead:
http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=AIR-SIERRA00055
Here is above the fuel tank (also removed), where the rear seats were. Batteries go here.
Exhaust, airbox and other bits sitting in the trailer ready to go, never to be used again.
32A Outlet
Here's a photo of the 32A outlet I have setup in the shed. This is used for the welder (when working) and also for testing the charging circuit on the car.
I have another plug and outlet ready to install in the garage for daily car charging.
I have another plug and outlet ready to install in the garage for daily car charging.
Welder Issues
So I may have blown some money...
I've since found out that my new welder I posted about earlier, was only designed with 60Hz AC mains in mind. Living in Australia we have 50Hz. The user manual for the Miller Diversion 165 is very misleading stating 50/60Hz. What I believe was meant by this is that they may (in the future) have two versions, one for each frequency but both with the same part number. Personally I think the part numbers should be different if they are designed to run on different mains systems but alas..
Anyway.. so I've put it back in its box and I'm trying to decide what to do with it.
Options:
1. Leave it in the corner and forget about it.
2. Sell it on ebay to someone in USA/anywhere else that has 230VAC 60Hz mains. The problem with this is the huge shipping cost. Sea shipping may make this a viable option.
3. Modify it? Any ideas people?
Here are the symptoms:
Welder welds briefly (5sec or so) then cuts out, fan kicks in, relays switch on and off, fan stops, then you can resume welding for another 5 seconds or so. Grrr.. so irritating.
I've since found out that my new welder I posted about earlier, was only designed with 60Hz AC mains in mind. Living in Australia we have 50Hz. The user manual for the Miller Diversion 165 is very misleading stating 50/60Hz. What I believe was meant by this is that they may (in the future) have two versions, one for each frequency but both with the same part number. Personally I think the part numbers should be different if they are designed to run on different mains systems but alas..
Anyway.. so I've put it back in its box and I'm trying to decide what to do with it.
Options:
1. Leave it in the corner and forget about it.
2. Sell it on ebay to someone in USA/anywhere else that has 230VAC 60Hz mains. The problem with this is the huge shipping cost. Sea shipping may make this a viable option.
3. Modify it? Any ideas people?
Here are the symptoms:
Welder welds briefly (5sec or so) then cuts out, fan kicks in, relays switch on and off, fan stops, then you can resume welding for another 5 seconds or so. Grrr.. so irritating.
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