Honda Integra Electric Vehicle Conversion

New Order placed

2010-02-23T06:17:00.000-08:00

I decided to go for the A/C straight off the bat. I've ordered the 14,000BTU compressor and 2.5kw AC inverter by Masterflux through EVworks.

http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?category=11

Also got them to send me one of their fuel gauge meter things I mentioned in an earlier post.

Update on the welder

2010-02-23T06:12:00.000-08:00

As I mentioned in a previous post I have been having issues with my new Miller Electric Diversion 165 welder. I've been in contact with the company whom I bought it from and they have, in turn, been in contact with the manufacturer. Turns out that the first batch of Diversion 165s will only work on 60Hz AC supplies whereas the ones manufactured later will work on either 50 or 60Hz.

Long story short the manufacturer Miller Electric have decided to send me one of the new models and told me to keep the one I have now for parts! Thanks Miller!

Can't wait to start TIG welding some scrap in preparation for battery boxes :)

New Toy

2010-02-23T06:10:00.000-08:00

I've been a little distracted lately..

2009 Suzuki Gladius (650cc twin)

Mmm.. black :)

New arrivals

2010-02-23T04:04:00.001-08:00

EV Power Battery Management System Master Unit

Another shot of the BMS

BMS Cell modules

3 of the 45 Sky Energy SE180AHA Batteries

The rest of them..

Engine crane

4kw Fluid heater

1200A 50mV shunt (for Cycle Analyst)

Vacuum Pump

DC/DC Converter

Power Cable - Fat 95mm^2

Conduit - Regulation Orange

Exciting week

2010-02-07T05:08:00.000-08:00

Parts expected to arrive this week are:

Batteries
BMS
Vacuum pump
Fluid heater
Power cable, conduit, crimpers, lugs, warning stickers
DC-DC Converter

Exciting!

Engine removal in a FWD car

2010-02-07T05:05:00.000-08:00

It seems that removing the petrol engine requires removing the drive axles first which in turn requires some of the steering/suspension parts to be removed.

I've ordered a tool to enable me to disconnect the lower control arm from the steering knuckle. Once I receive it progress on engine removal should continue as planned.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/21315-GRIP-BALL-JOINT-REMOVAL-INSTALL-SERVICE-KIT_W0QQitemZ170430824233QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ae77ff29

Using the existing fuel gauge as a battery meter

2010-02-07T04:48:00.000-08:00

I just found this:

http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=171

It measures the current flowing through your traction cables. Measuring current along with time gives you Ah used. This works on the same principle as the Cycle Analyst I will be using however it has one really neat feature.. It is designed to connect to an existing fuel gauge.

What does all this mean? It means I can use the existing fuel gauge in the dash as a battery charge meter!

The plan is to have the car look as stock as possible on the inside, utilising all existing gauges (speedo, tacho, fuel gauge, engine warning light and battery light). But at the same time I will have more accurate gauges showing pack voltage, current, motor current etc. all hidden away in the glovebox.

AC System De-gassed & Looking for engine crane

2010-01-26T21:40:00.001-08:00

Had a bloke come out today to de-gas the AC system ready for detachment/removal.
Also heading out to look at engine cranes today. I'll stop by the usual candidates (supercheap auto, autobarn, total tools etc.), then compare the offerings on ebay. I'm hoping to find one which folds up to save space.

No exhaust

2010-01-25T18:22:00.001-08:00

I just thought I'd post a quick pic of what the car will look like without an exhaust pipe.
I like it!

Holden Commodore "the Vee Elll"

2010-01-25T18:19:00.000-08:00

Here's what I'll be driving while undergoing the conversion..
It's nowhere near as fun to drive as the Honda, but it will get me from A to B.

Car deconstruction begins!

2010-01-25T18:07:00.002-08:00

Radiator, airbox and power steering pump removed. Aircon will be de-gassed soon and removed. I hope to be able to find a place later to mount the compressor and run it from an aux motor... or maybe just use one of these instead:

http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=AIR-SIERRA00055

Here is above the fuel tank (also removed), where the rear seats were. Batteries go here.

Exhaust, airbox and other bits sitting in the trailer ready to go, never to be used again.

32A Outlet

2010-01-25T18:04:00.001-08:00

Here's a photo of the 32A outlet I have setup in the shed. This is used for the welder (when working) and also for testing the charging circuit on the car.

I have another plug and outlet ready to install in the garage for daily car charging.

Welder Issues

2010-01-25T17:38:00.000-08:00

So I may have blown some money...

I've since found out that my new welder I posted about earlier, was only designed with 60Hz AC mains in mind. Living in Australia we have 50Hz. The user manual for the Miller Diversion 165 is very misleading stating 50/60Hz. What I believe was meant by this is that they may (in the future) have two versions, one for each frequency but both with the same part number. Personally I think the part numbers should be different if they are designed to run on different mains systems but alas..

Anyway.. so I've put it back in its box and I'm trying to decide what to do with it.
Options:
1. Leave it in the corner and forget about it.
2. Sell it on ebay to someone in USA/anywhere else that has 230VAC 60Hz mains. The problem with this is the huge shipping cost. Sea shipping may make this a viable option.
3. Modify it? Any ideas people?

Here are the symptoms:
Welder welds briefly (5sec or so) then cuts out, fan kicks in, relays switch on and off, fan stops, then you can resume welding for another 5 seconds or so. Grrr.. so irritating.

Where have I been?

2009-12-20T03:36:00.000-08:00

Sorry for no updates... I've been away for a month.

I'm now a soldier in the Australian Army.

But back on topic.. I'll be beginning to remove the engine soon and will post updates as I go.

I bought a welder!

2009-11-11T17:54:00.000-08:00

Just purchased this:

Miller Diversion 165 AC DC TIG Welder

along with a pedal, cover, 3M auto helmet, some tig gloves and electrodes.
I can't wait until it arrives.

Electric Specs

2009-11-11T17:43:00.000-08:00

Electric parts being used in this conversion (subject to change):

Either Netgain Warp 9 or ADC FB1-4001 series DC motor (depending on space available)
Zilla Z1K-LV speed controller
45 Sky Energy SE180AHA cells
Elithion BMS
MES-DEA 70/6E vacuum pump
MES-DEA RM4 4Kw fluid heater
Manzanita Micro PFC-30 charger

There are many other smaller parts but these are the main components.

Battery location

2009-11-11T17:30:00.000-08:00

This car will become a 2 seater. This is because of the GVM limit. In Australia design rules specify that you need to allow 81.6kg per passenger. This is made up of 68kg for the passenger and 13.6kg for their luggage. With the added weight of batteries I can only accommodate 2 passengers.

This means that I can utilise the rear seat space for batteries.
I've removed the spare wheel, jack, hatch cover, carpet and rear seats. As you can see the place where the rear seats were is in front of the rear axle. This is a great spot to place extra load.

My Electric Bike

2009-11-11T17:15:00.000-08:00

You may have spotted a bike in the background of the previous photo.
I electrified it earlier this year and it will be appearing in a book about electric vehicles sometime next year.
More info at:
http://www.evalbum.com/2702

And if you want to convert your own bike I'd recommend
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/
for info, and:
http://www.ebikes.ca/
for buying parts

The Shed

2009-11-11T17:12:00.001-08:00

This is the shed where the conversion will happen.
(once it has been cleaned and I've made room for the car, that is!)

Spoiler Removal

2009-11-11T17:04:00.000-08:00

LED lights in spoiler weren't working so I've removed it and reconnected the original 3rd brake light behind the read window.

Removing the spoiler should help lower drag too which is a nice plus.
The holes were plugged with either a grommet or stainless hex bolt and nut with Mastik to prevent rust.

New tyres

2009-11-11T16:59:00.000-08:00

The car needed new tyres to pass roadworthy so I bought some low rolling resistance tyres.
Michellin Energy XM1+ 195/60/14

Conversion Basics

2009-11-11T16:17:00.000-08:00

I will be converting my 1996 Honda Integra to run on electricity.

I chose the Honda Integra for my conversion as a friend was selling one. I got it for a good price and it's in very good condition. Very tidy engine bay.. no oil to be seen! Kudos to my friend's upkeep and degreasing skills :)

Specs on the Honda Integra:

1996
2 door
Tare weight 1115kg
GVM 1500kg

Although it's a little heavier than the cars most people use to convert (Charades etc.) I believe it's a good choice because:

It's still a lightweight car
It has a good aerodynamic shape
It is safer than most micro cars
It is better built than the ultra-light micro cars
It is a car I'm happy to be seen in!

PS - Yes, she needs a clean. There's a combination of dust, pollen and bird poo on her at the moment!